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Krong Kep,
Cambodia |
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From
the early 20th century through the 1960s, Kep was Cambodia's
premier beach town, drawing weekend holiday-makers to its
picturesque shores and sporting the ocean side villas of the
privileged class. Nowadays, the old villas are in ruins, and
the town is known more for its oceanfront seafood stalls
than for its beaches, which are narrow
and
stony, offering just a few slivers of sand. For
the moment at least, Kep has a real ‘out of the way’ feel to
it - jungled
mountains, empty beaches and few tourist services. The main
road winds along the oceanfront, through the crab market and
past small beaches and ritzy villas now crumbling in
disrepair. Kep's current raison d'etre is fresh seafood,
especially crab. No trip to Kep is complete without at least
one seaside picnic. |
Getting to Kep

KAMPOT to/from KEP
The road from Kampot to Kep is paved, smooth and picturesque. It’s a
25km, 30-45 minute trip from Kampot though scenic Cambodian
countryside - rice paddies, traditional stilted houses and rural
life. Have your camera ready. From Kampot, follow the road east to
the White Horse Monument. Bear right at the monument (go straight to
Kampong Trach.) At the next main turnoff, bear right onto the
oceanfront road to the Kep Beach area. Motodups start at about $10
round trip and tuk-tuks about $12-$25 round trip depending how long
you spend in Kep. Package day tours to Kep out of Kampot often
include a visit to at other nearby destinations such as Rabbit
Island, the caves between Kampot and Kep and a pepper plantation.
Kep Dining
Kep is known for its fresh seafood, especially the crab, which is
absolutely excellent - literally straight from the ocean to your
plate. In fact, Kep’s most popular tourist activity, next to
relaxing at the beach, is partaking of a fresh seafood picnic at the
oceanfront. There are dozens of picnic platforms and mats along the
road at Kep Beach near the main intersection. Just find an empty
platform, sit down and the vendors will come to you. Most vendors
have basic English language menus from which you can choose crab,
prawns, squid and fish prepared in a variety of fashions. The Kampot
Pepper Crab - fried and served cracked with generous bunches of
fresh green Kampot pepper corns - is a local culinary classic.
All of the hotels and guesthouses in Kep have restaurants and bars,
most quite good. Most serve a wider variety of dishes than the local
vendors, fresh seafood dishes as well as variety of western and
international dishes. There are also several rustic beachfront
seafood shacks along the oceanfront at the Crab Market. The
atmosphere is very local and very welcoming. They all have English
language menus and the prices are generally a bit cheaper than the
seafood vendors at the beachfront platforms. After dark, most of Kep
closes down, except for the Riel Bar
near the intersection, some of the hotel/ guesthouse restaurants and
the seafood shacks at the Crab Market, some staying open as late as
10PM or 11PM
Long Villa Restaurant Seaside restaurant situated right at
the Koh Tunsay (Rabbit Island) Boat Dock. Like most places in Kep,
the emphasis is on fresh seafood prepared both western and Asian
style. Book a boat trip to Koh Tunsay at the restaurant.
Riel Bar, Restaurant &
Bakery
Regular concerts, exhibitions, performances, dance events and 'be
your own DJ - evenings' can turn a visit to Riel Bar into an
exciting experience. Full bar, reasonable prices, one of the only
places in town open into the evening. Free pool table. Offering
homemade pastries, ice cream and whole wheat bread products. Khmer
cooking classes on request. Located in between crab market and the
hillside guesthouses. Customers that leave their dollars at home and
pay in riels receive a discount on their bill.
Tel: +(855) (0)17-902771 (English,)
+(855) (0)17-739336 (Khmer.)
Website: www.kep-riel-bar.com .
Kep
Guesthouses and Hotels
The Beach House
Range: $35 - $50
FRF On the hillside
overlooking Kep Beach. Nicely decorated rooms with a/c, satellite
TV, hot water, fridge, en suite bathroom and balconies with
picturesque ocean views. Swimming pool, spa. Good restaurant serving
Asian and western food. Full bar. Meeting room. 24-hour electricity.
Tel: +(855) (0)12-240090
E-mail:
info@thebeachhousekep.com
Website: www.thebeachhousekep.com
Botanica
Range $7-$8
BRF Friendly easy-going place
with a smile along the main road, located 2km north from the Crab
Market. Restaurant and 5 bungalows in a garden setting where you can
play boule or just relax. Serving world kitchen (Belgian, Algerian,
Peruvian, Indonesian…) offering a different culinary experience than
the typical ‘Western-Asian menus.’ Pool table and Belgian beers.
Bicycles 1000r/day for guests, $1/day for non-guests; mountain
bikes: $2/day. “Botanica …not a flower shop.”
Tel: +(855) (0)16-562775
E-mail: info@kep-botanica.com
Website: www.kep-botanica.com
Kep Lodge
Range: $23 - $28 (Breakfast included)
New swimming pool. Fan and sea
breeze-cooled thatched bungalows with big terrace. Bordering the
National Park and offering a spectacular view of mountains and
islands. Six nicely decorated, spacious wooden or concrete bungalows
surrounded by a garden and fruit trees. Rooms equipped with
comfortable 1.6m mattresses, bathroom with hot water, some with
bathtub. Wifi access throughout the lodge. Restaurant serving
outstanding Khmer and Western food (some Swiss specialties). The
comfortable bar with pool table is a great place for a cocktail or a
glass of wine. Western-managed, very friendly staff.
Visa/MC
Tel: +(855) (0)92-435330, +(855) (0)15-463150 , +(855) (0)17-879526,
+(855) (0)17-879153
Email:
info@keplodge.com
Website:
www.keplodge.com
Le Bout du Monde
Range: $15 - $85
B/FRF Traditional wooden bungalows and suites in a lush
garden mountainside setting with a sweeping view of the islands and
coastline. Traditional decor, all new amenities, mini-bar, hot
water, safe in room. Several new houses. Terrace restaurant with a
view, serving Khmer and French dishes. Full bar. French, English and
Khmer spoken.
Tel: +(855) (0)12-242166, +(855) (0)11-964181
E-mail:
contact.leboutdumonde@gmail.com
Website:
www.leboutdumondekep.com
Lida Khmer Guesthouse
Range: $6 - $10
BRF Large, clean, basic fan rooms
at the Lida Khmer House Massage. On the main road about 1 km north
of the Crab Market intersection, between Kep Lodge and
Botanica.
Tel: +(855) (0)12-953427
N4 Guesthouse
Range: $10 - $30
B/FRF Fan and s/c rooms and
bungalows with cable TV, en suite bathroom with hot water and some
with balcony overlooking the ocean. Meeting room for 40 pax. Located
near the base of the mountain opposite the intersection to the Crab
Market.
Tel: +(855) (0)12-789031, +(855) (0)92-494338
Email: n4hotel@yahoo.com
Vanna Bungalows
Range: $10 - $20
BRF Quality-constructed fan and
a/c bungalows with en suite and hot water. On the hillside with a
fantastic view overlooking the ocean. A real ‘feel at home’
atmosphere. Restaurant with home cooked Cambodian food. (Try the
Amok.) Western also available. Dining area large enough for
functions/meetings.
Tel: +(855) (0)12-755038
Website: www.vannabungalows.com
Veranda Bungalows
and Resort
Range: $25-$70 (including breakfast)
B/FRF Stylish fan and air-conditioned bungalows with
veranda on the hillside. En suite bathroom with hot water. Family
bungalows available. Receiving very good reviews. 24 hour security.
24 hour electricity. Wifi. The unique Jungle Bar serves wide variety
of Cambodian and international cuisine including Bong Karem gelato
ice cream. First bakery in Kep. Full bar and a terrace with
comfortable seating and a spectacular sunset view of the ocean and
islands. Traveler’s check exchange.
Visa/MC
Tel: +(855) (0)12-888619, +(855) (0)92-948093
E-mail:
verandaresort@mobitel.com.kh
Website:
www.veranda-resort.com
Things to Do and See Around Kampot and Kep
Bokor Hill Station on Phnom Bokor and Kep Beach are perhaps the most
popular day tour destinations out of Kampot with tour operators
offering very competitively price tours. The area also offers
several other attractions including pre-Angkorian ruins and caves,
jungle trekking, bicycling tours, river cruises, island trips,
isolated beaches, pepper plantations and some beautiful rural
countryside.
Whether you plan to do-it-yourself or book a tour, transportation
and/or tours can be found through one of the many local tour
operators or through your guesthouse. Shop around for the best price
and for exact type of tour you would like to take.
Sok Lim Tours
Located near Blissful Guesthouse, in Kampot
Tel: +(855) (0)12-801348
www.soklimtours.com
Wild Orchid Adventure Tours
At Wild Orchid Guesthouse, in Kampot
Tel: +(855) (0)92-226996
orchidguesthousekampot@yahoo.com
.
Bokor Hill Station
Tours to Bokor are perhaps the most popular out of Kampot. The Bokor
Hill Station on Phnom Bokor (Bokor Mountain) is a mountaintop
collection of buildings (hotel, casino, church, royal residence,
etc.), constructed by French authorities in the early 1920s as a
complement to the already popular Kep resort area. In the 1990s a
travel author referred to Bokor as ‘the eeriest place in the world’,
and it lives up to that reputation. In its time, Bokor was an
elegant getaway for French officials and foreign visitors to old
Indochina - a classic colonial ‘hill station’ located in the
mountains to allow foreigner visitors accustomed to more temperate
climes to escape the tropical heat. But years of neglect have left
ghostly ruins - vestiges of a different age, often shrouded in fog
and clouds. One thing that the years have not changed is the
absolutely spectacular view of the coast and the cool (sometimes
cold) mountain air. Bokor Mountain is heavily jungled and trip
beyond Bokor, including jungle trekking, can be arranged. Wild
elephants and other jungle animal are occasionally seen. The is a
small guesthouse near the hill station with $5 rooms, good toilets
and very few other services. It can get cold on the
mountain, especially at night. Bring warm clothes.
News:
In January 2008, Bokor Hill Station was closed to visitors as work
began on a new development project, including refurbishing the
casino and hotel and the addition of a new hotel complex. Since the
beginning of the project, access to the Hill Station has been
irregular. As of July 2008, access is limited to
those who went as part of a tour group or with a tour guide. Access
rules may change again, perhaps allowing visitors individual access
once again. Check with your guesthouse for the latest information.
Regular all day tours up the mountain run about $15/pax plus a $5
park admission fee and includes transport, guide, lunch and some
also include a sunset boat ride back to town. Tour operators can
also organize jungle trekking and overnights on the mountain. One
immediate benefit of the development project has been the
improvement of the road up the mountain, drastically reducing travel
times. The Park Office and turn-off to the Hill Station is 37km west
of Kampot.
Caves near Kampot: Limestone mountains (‘phnom’) dot the
landscape between Kampot and Kep. Many contain limestone caves, some
adorned with exotic rock formations, and almost all containing
Buddhist shines. Make sure to bring a torch and wear shoes suitable
for climbing on rocks.
The caves of Phnom Chhnork - Cave #1
Pre-Angkorian ruin set in a limestone cave amongst stalagmites
and stalactites that are slowly growing back into the ruin. Small,
4th-5th century AD brick structure associated with the ancient state
of Funan. A bit of carving is still visible. Look for the limestone
formations near the entrance of the cave in the shapes of elephants.
Cave #2 The entrance is about 300 meters from Cave #1 in the
same limestone outcropping. Very little in the way of formations,
but quite deep, requiring climbing over piles of rock and through
small openings. Small shrine.
The cave at Phnom Sla Ta'aun Plain by
comparison to other caves, but still an interesting climb. Look for
the huge rock balanced in a hole in the ceiling. Small shrine.
The cave at Phnom Sasear, also known as
the ‘White Elephant Cave.’ Located next to an colorful pagoda. The
stairs up the side of the outcropping provide a beautiful view of
the countryside, especially during the wet season. The cave contains
a shrine at the base of a limestone formation alleged to resemble a
white elephant.
Kampong Trach: Kampong Trach is the district that borders Vietnam. The road trip from Kampot to the main town passes though some picturesque rural areas. There is a new side road to Kampong Trach town that skirts the base
of Phnom Voar, (where the victims of the 1994 Khmer Rouge kidnappings were held.) These mountain areas of Kampong Trach were one of the last Khmer Rouge holdouts. Kampong Trach town is small and relatively uninteresting. The area’s main attraction is a series of limestone caves and tubes that have been carved into a nearby mountain. The roof of a large cave in the center of a mountain has collapsed, making a small, enclosed jungle. Pagodas and shrines have been built amongst the caves, providing for some excellent photo possibilities. Bring a flashlight and wear good walking shoes.
From Kampot, take the Kep road, bear left at the White Horse Monument and follow to Kampong Trach. After a few kilometers the road changes to badly broken pavement. The side road mentioned above requires a left turn onto a graded dirt road about 7 km past the White Horse Monument. It is not a straightforward route and it may be better if you go with a guide. Set aside the better part of a day for the trip to the caves and back.
Kep Beach A single, kilometer long crescent of sand near the tip of the Kep peninsula. Dining platforms and seafood vendors line the road behind the beach. Busy on weekends but often deserted during the week. The road through Kep traces the coastline to the beach and then circles back on itself. Cars and vans must pay admission to drive the loop (2500R-5000R). Motorcycles and pedestrians are free. Be aware that the loop is an one way street and the police do occasionally enforce the law, levying fines against violators.
Massage
Kampot Massage by the Blind on the river road in Kampot near
Bokor Mountain Lodge offers foot and body massage and Japanese
Shiatsu-style massage by seeing-impaired masseurs and masseuses.
$4/hour. Tel: 012-662114
Lida Khmer House Massage Traditional Khmer massage - oil,
foot, full body for $5-$12. Receiving good reviews from customers.
In Kep, on the main road about 1 km north of the Crab Market
intersection, between Kep Lodge and Botanica. Open
7AM-10PM .Tel: 012-953427
Seeing Hands 5 Massage NGO-based massage shop offering
Shiatsu-style massage by seeing-impaired masseurs and masseuses.
Located about 50 meters off the riverfront in Kampot. Tel:
012-503012
Rabbit Island (Koh Tunsay) Rabbit Island is a small beachy
island about 20-40 minutes from Kep by local boat. Make a day trip
to the island - going in the morning and returning to Kep in the
afternoon - or stay the night. Lazy, secluded white sand beaches and
coconut trees. Relatively clear, warm waters. Snorkel around the
rocks. There’s no coral but lots of colorful fish. There are now
some very basic guesthouse/bungalow facilities on the island -
rustic beach bungalows for less than $10 and a couple of rudimentary
restaurant/bars. Arrange a boat trip to the island through your
guesthouse in Kampot or Kep or just go to the Koh Tunsay Boat Dock
in Kep town next to the Long Villa Restaurant. Boats are
almost always available.
River Trips Short sunset river cruises and longer
cultural/wildlife/eco trips upriver can be arranged through a tour
operator or your guesthouse. Sunset river cruises are becoming more
popular, running from Kampot to the rapids at Tekchhou and back. The
Boatman runs full runs moon, half and full day estuary
cruises and charter adventure cruises. Tel: 092-1742180
Tekcchou Resort and Zoo A picnic area on the Prek Chha river.
Popular with the locals, especially on weekends. Lots of food/drink
stalls. The cool rapids and river breeze are quite pleasant. Nearby
Asian-style mini zoo displaying a variety of local fauna. 8km. Good
road. $3 entrance fee for foreigners, 1000 riel for Cambodians.
Volunteer Work
For those interested in contributing some of their time to the
community, Kampot has many volunteer opportunities with NGOs and
other charitable organizations (teaching, assistance with children
and disabled people, reconstruction projects, etc.) Contact
Little Garden Bar, Blissful Guesthouse or check out the
Kampot Dar-laing for more information about volunteer
opportunities in the area.
Last updated 08/08
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