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The sights of Phnom Penh are largely
cultural and historical but only part of the
experience exploring the city. Exotic shopping, unique dining, indulgent
spas and a bit of nightlife complete the Phnom Penh experience. Set
aside two or three days to see the major points of interest. It is
possible to squeeze the most important sights into a single day, but
this leaves very little time at each. Popular city sights include the
Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda, the
Toul Sleng Genocide Museum and the Khmer Rouge ‘Killing Fields,’
the National Museum, the Russian Market, Central Market
and Wat Phnom. Except for the ‘Killing Fields,’ which is
about 16km away, all of the major points are inside the city within a
five or ten minute car/moto ride of each other. Most people hire
transportation for half-day or a day at a
time to take in the sights. Consider a cyclo or even a walking tour for
a more intimate look at the city. There are several Angkorian-era ruins
and other historic sites 20-60km outside town. See
Day Trips.
Phnom Penh City Sights
 Independence Monument
(At the intersection of Norodom and Sihanouk)
The Independence Monument (Vimean Ekareach) was inaugurated in November 9,
1962, celebrating Cambodia’s independence from foreign rule. Renowned
Cambodian architect Vann Molyvann was the architect of the monument
which is patterned on a lotus flower bud, adorned with Naga heads
(multi-headed cobras,) and obviously reminiscent in design of the towers
of Angkor Wat. The Independence Monument now also serves as a monument to Cambodia’s
war dead as well as her independence. The Independence Monument sit in
the center of the traffic circle at the intersection of Norodom Blvd.
and Sihanouk Blvd. and is the site of colorful celebrations and services on
political holidays such as Independence Day (January 7) and Constitution Day
(September 24.)
 National Museum
(Street 178 & Street 13, next to the Royal Palace - $3.00 - 8:00-5:00,
open everyday)
The distinctive rust-red National Museum
next to the Royal Palace was dedicated by King Sisowath in 1920.
Over 5000 objects are on display including Angkorian era statues, lingas
and other artifacts, most notably the legendary statue of the ‘Leper
King.’ Though the emphasis is on Angkorian artifacts, there is also a
good collection of pieces from later periods, including a special
exhibition of post-Angkorian Buddha figures. Visiting the museum after
rather than before a trip to the
Angkor Archaeological Park in Siem Reap helps lend context to
the Angkorian artifacts. Multi-lingual tour guides are available.
Souvenirs and books available. Photography is limited. The museum
borders Street 178, aka
‘Artist’s Street’ which is lined with local art galleries and souvenir
shops. The Reyum Gallery on Street 178
is of particular note, exhibiting the works of contemporary Cambodian
artists.
 Royal Palace and ‘Silver Pagoda’
(Sothearos between Streets 240 & 184 - $3.00/person, $2.00/camera, $5.00/video cam. Open everyday, 7:30-11:00 / 2:30-5:00)
Marking the approach to the Royal Palace along Sothearos Blvd the
high yellow crenellated wall and spired Chanchhaya Pavilion stand
distinctively against the riverfront skyline. Inside the Palace grounds
street sounds are silenced by the high walls and the royal buildings sit
like ornate islands rising from the manicured gardens. The Royal
Palace serves as the residence of the King, a venue for court
ceremony and as a symbol of the Kingdom. It was first established at its
present location when the capital was moved from Oudong to Phnom Penh in
1866 under King Norodom and the French protectorate, though the Palace
did not attain its current general form until about 1920. Khmer and
European elements as well as distinct architectural echoes of the palace
in Bangkok are present in the design of the various buildings. Attached
to the Palace compound, Wat Preah Keo Morokat (the 'Silver
Pagoda') is unique amongst pagodas. So named for its silver tiled
floor, it is where the King meets with monks, Royal ceremonies are
performed and it houses a collection of priceless Buddhist and
historical objects including the 'Emerald Buddha.' And, unlike most
pagodas, no monks live at the pagoda. The temple building, library and
galleries were first constructed between 1892 and 1902.
See the Royal
Palace and Silver Pagoda page for more.
For more see Julio Jeldres' book 'The Royal Palace of Phnom Penh and
Cambodian Royal Life' Street 240...(more)
 Wat Phnom
(Intersection of Street 96 and Norodom Blvd. - $1/person)
A small hill crowned by an active wat (pagoda) marks the legendary
founding place of the Phnom Penh. The hill is the site of constant
activity, with a steady stream of the faithful trekking to the vihear,
shrines and fortune tellers on top and a constellation of vendors,
visitors and motodups at the bottom. Elephant rides available. The
legend of the founding of Wat Phnom is tied to the beginnings of Phnom
Penh. Legend has it that in 1372 Lady Penh (Yea Penh) fished a floating
Koki tree out of the river. Inside the tree were four Buddha statues.
She built a hill (‘phnom’ means ‘hill’) and a small temple (wat) at what
is now the site known as Wat Phnom. Later, the surrounding area became
known after the hill (Phnom) and its creator (Penh), hence the name of
the city ‘Phnom Penh.’ The current temple was last rebuilt in 1926. The
large stupa contains the remains of King Ponhea Yat (1405-1467) who
moved the Khmer capital from Angkor to Phnom Penh the early 15th
century. Look for the altar of Lady Penh between the large stupa and the
vihear. She is said to be of particular help to women.
 River Cruises
Short river cruises and sunset cruises along the Phnom Penh
riverfront are easy to
arrange and offer an interesting view of the city. A cruise typically
takes about 1 - 2 hours and runs up the Tonle Sap River along the
central riverfront area providing a picturesque view of the
Royal Palace, National Museum,
parks and Phnom Penh skyline, and then across the Tonle Sap and up the
Mekong River to view floating fishing villages. (Photography note: Best
lighting in the early morning as the low eastern sun illuminates the
front of the Royal Palace.)
Tourist boats of varying size and quality wait along the riverfront,
usually between Street 144 and Street 130, and at the Passenger Port
near Street 104. Just look for the cluster of boats and advertising
placards. From about 4PM-5:30PM you can get a sunset cruise for
$4-$5/person on a shared tour boat. If you want a private boat, or
arrive anytime other than the sunset hours, boats run about for
$10-$15/hour for a whole boat and offers a standard tour itinerary.
Bring your friends and split the price. Prices go up for larger boats.
Kanika A unique catamaran - spacious, modern, fully
outfitted. Docked at the Passenger Port. Private parties, dinner
cruises, charter. Proceeds go to the Seametrey NGO projects.
Tel: 012-848802.
Experience Mekong Boat
offers single/multi-day trips for individuals and groups. General
touring and cultural trips on the Mekong or Tonle Sap to see daily life
- stilted and floating villages, boat building, life on the river...
Tel: 012-432456
www.cambodiabyboat.com
 The River Front
Some of Phnom Penh's most important cultural sites as well as dozens of
pubs, restaurants and shops sit along the picturesque park-lined
riverfront overlooking the chaktomuk - the confluence of the
Tonle Sap, Mekong and Bassac
Rivers. The Royal Palace, the Silver Pagoda and the National
Museum are clustered together between
Street 178 and
240 and restaurants and
pubs line the riverfront road
Sisowath Quay, stretching north from the Royal Palace area
all the way to Street 104
near Wat Phnom. Visit the Royal Palace and National
Museum and stroll up the riverfront for a drink or a meal or to do
some shopping. Just off the riverfront,
Street 240 behind the Royal
Palace harbors several restaurants and
high-quality boutiques and
Street 178 next to the National
Museum is known as 'Art Street' and is dotted with interesting
little art galleries and silk shops. Early
risers, check out the spectacular sunrise over the river in front of the
Royal Palace area.
 The
Architecture of
Phnom
Penh
Prior to the late 19th century Phnom Penh was a few pagodas and a
string of wooden and bamboo structures along the riverfront. It was
not until the beginning of the French colonial period that the
modern form of the city began to develop. Almost every existing
structure has been built since the 1860s. At the height of the
colonial period Phnom Penh was reputed to be the most beautiful city
in French Indochina - recalling Paris in its manicured parks and
picturesque boulevards lined with ornate villas and public
buildings. Though sometimes difficult to see through the grime and
disrepair of years of hardship and neglect, much of that beauty
still exists just barley hidden beneath. And
the history of the city can be seen in the architecture: classic
19th/early 20th century French Colonial buildings, typically in
yellow, never far from the riverfront where the early city was
centered; early/mid-20th century Art Deco structures such as Phsar
Thmey reflecting European trends; Post-Independence ‘Golden-era’
Khmer architecture from the 1950s and 60s displaying a modern,
distinctively Cambodian direction; and much later, the gaudy wedding
cake villas of the 90s and the mixed styles of the last decade...For
more on the architecture of Phnom Penh and a architecture tour map
and guide, see here.
Phnom Penh City Sights:
Khmer Rouge History
From April 17, 1975 until January 7, 1979,
the brutal, ultra-Communist Khmer Rouge regime (i.e. the Red Khmer, the
KR) controlled the whole of Cambodia, then known as 'Democratic
Kampuchea.' The Khmer Rouge was headed by Saloth Sar, who went by the
nom de guerre Pol Pot. During their short reign, between one and two and
a half million Cambodians perished, some killed outright, others dying
from disease, malnutrition, neglect and mistreatment. Some of the
horrific remnants of the Khmer Rouge regime can be seen at the Choeung
Ek Memorial (the ‘Killing Fields’) and the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum.
Though the Khmer Rouge were driven from power in 1979, they retreated to
the mountains and border areas, persisting until their final defeat and
dissolution in 1998-99. Surviving Khmer Rouge leaders are only now
facing a court for their crimes. Some are currently standing before the
Extraordinary Chambers in the Courts of Cambodia (ECCC), including the
infamous Kaing Guek Eav, a.k.a. ‘Duch,’ director of the infamous S-21
prison. Pol Pot died in 1998, never having faced justice
 Choeung Ek Memorial (The Killing Fields)
(15 km southwest of Phnom Penh - Take Monireth 8.5 km past the bridge at
Street 271) Many of the Cambodians who perished under the Khmer Rouge
regime ended up dumped in one of the dozens of ‘killing fields’ that can
be found scattered across the country. The killing fields were
essentially ad hoc places of execution and dumping grounds for dead
bodies during the Khmer Rouge regime (1975-1979.) After the Khmer Rouge
regime, memorials were set up at many of the sites, some containing the
bones and remnants of victims gather from the area. Prior to 1975, the
Choeung Ek just outside Phnom Penh was a orchard and a Chinese cemetery.
But during the Khmer Rouge regime the area became one of the infamous
killing fields. This particular killing field is the site of the brutal
executions of more than 17,000 men, women and children, most of whom had
first suffered through interrogation, torture and deprivation in the
S-21 Prison (now the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum) in Phnom Penh. The
Choeung Ek Memorial is now a group of mass graves, killing areas and a
memorial stupa containing thousands of human skulls and long bones. The
memorial is about a 20-40 minute drive from the center of Phnom Penh.
Guided tours through the area are available and reasonably priced
multi-lingual guides are available at the site. There is also a small
souvenir shop as well. For sake of historical context, combine your trip
to Choeung Ek with a visit to Toul Sleng Genocide Museum (the former
S-21 Prison) in Phnom Penh. Also see David Chandler’s book, ‘Voices
of S-21’ for the most systematic and complete account to date of the
history and operation of the S-21 Prison.
 Toul Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21)
(Corner of Street 113 & Street 350 - $2.00 - Open everyday, including
holidays, 8AM-5PM - Closed for lunch)
Prior to 1975, Toul Sleng was a high school - a set of classroom
buildings in a walled compound. When the Khmer Rouge came to power in
1975 they converted into the S-21 prison and interrogation facility,
administered by Kaing Guek Eav, a.k.a. ‘Duch,’ who is currently on trial
for his actions at S-21. Inmates at the prison were held in tiny brick
cubicles and systematically tortured, sometimes over a period of months,
to extract the desired ‘confessions,’ after which the victim was
inevitably executed at the killing field of Choeung Ek just outside the
city. S-21 processed over 17,000 people, less than a score of whom
survived. The Tuol Sleng compound now serves as a museum, a memorial and
a testament to the madness of the Khmer Rouge regime. Much has been left
in the state it was in when the Khmer Rouge abandoned it in January
1979. The prison kept extensive records, leaving thousands of photos of
their victims, many of which are on display. Paintings of torture at the
prison by Vann Nath, a survivor of Toul Sleng, are also exhibited. For
more on the S-21 check out Chandler’s book, ‘Voices from S-21.’ See page
32 for more on books.
Phnom Penh City Sights:
Traditional Markets
In Cambodia it is the women who take charge of trade...
Market is held everyday from six o'clock...
they display their goods on matting spread upon the ground.
Each has an allotted place...
-
excerpt from The Customs of Cambodia by Zhou Daguan circa 1300AD
'Phsar’ means ‘market’ in Khmer. A visit to at least one traditional
market (phsar) is a must. If you visit only one or two markets, begin
with the Russian Market and the Central Market. Both offer curios,
souvenirs and a cultural shopping adventure. Other markets such as the
Old Market (Phsar Chas) have far fewer items for tourists but can still
be culturally and photographically interesting. The markets open and
close with the sun but are fairly sleepy between 11:30AM and 2:00PM.
 Central Market (Psah Thmei)
This unique, art deco building is a Phnom Penh landmark. Prior to 1935
the area was a swamp/lake known as Beng Decho that received the runoff
during the rainy season. The lake was drained and the market constructed
in 1935-37. Phsar Thmey is currently undergoing a refurbishing project -
the interior reconstructed, a new bright yellow paint job, new stalls
are being constructed, etc. Many of the vendors have moved to temporary
buildings on either side of the market building. The souvenir vendors
are in the temporary building on the south side of the market. Even with
the construction, Phsar Thmey is still well worth a shopping visit.
(Phsar Thmey means ‘New Market’, but ‘Central Market’ has caught on in
English.)
 Russian Market (Psah Toul Tom Poung)
This market became the foreigner’s market during the 1980’s when most of
the foreigners in Cambodia were Russians, hence the name ‘Russian
Market.’ It is of far less architectural interest than the Central
Market but has a larger, more varied selection of souvenirs, curios and
silks. Like the Central Market, there are several jewelers and
gold-sellers, but it also carries huge selection of curios, silks and
carvings, it is one of the best markets in town to buy fabric, and it
offers the largest selection of VCDs, DVDs and CDs of
the traditional markets. Most of the DVD vendors are located on the
south side near the southeast corner of the market. Most of what the
visitor might want is in the same general area on the south side but the
rest of the market is well worth exploring. Food and drink stands in the
middle of the market for hygienically adventurous visitors.
Old Market (Psah Chas)
A local market not at all geared to tourists, carrying such items as
fruits and vegetables, hardware, second hand clothes, motorcycle parts
and religious items. The dinner rush hour at the food stands along
Street 110 and Street 108 makes for a confusing, dirty, potentially
photogenic scene.
Night Market (Phsar Reatrey)
Phnom Penh’s new Night Market on the riverfront is aimed squarely at
visitors and tourists, offering a wide and varied selection of Cambodian
handicrafts silks, art, curios and souvenirs. Currently the Night Market
opens only on the weekends, starting up at about 5:00PM and runs until
at least 9:00 or 10:00PM. Located in the park between Street 106 and 108
on the riverfront. Stop in as you stroll up the riverfront.
 Phsar
Kandal
A typical, sprawling, low-slung local market similar to Phsar Chas.
Meat, vegetables, fruits and tailors fill the north half while jewelers
and electronics stalls are located in the building next door. It’s a
very local scene but as the market is only a couple of blocks off the
riverfront tourists occasionally find their way to the market coffee
stalls and noodle shops. There is a comparatively large Vietnamese
population living in the area around Phsar Kandal, which and is
reflected in the character of the market - the food, the dress and the
language.
Phnom Penh City Sights:
Pagodas (Wats)
Well over 95% of the Cambodian
population is Buddhist and in Phnom Penh you are never far from a
Buddhist pagoda (wat.) Dozens of pagodas dot the city with one located
in almost every neighborhood in town. Though many of the pagodas are
comparatively modern, Phnom Penh’s original five wats were established
in the 15th century, all still functioning. Pagoda ground are colorful
photogenic places and most are open and welcoming to the general public.
But if you visit a pagoda please be respectful of the place and people.
Dress conservatively (long sleeves and pants,) respect the privacy of
monks and worshippers and ask before taking photos, especially of
people. The following short list of pagodas are some of the cities more
historic and photogenic wats. See Ray Zepp’s highly recommended book ‘A
Field Guide to Cambodia Pagodas’ for an introduction to
Cambodian Buddhism and a guide to Phnom Penh’s pagodas.
Wat Phnom
(Intersection of Street 96 and Norodom Blvd. - $1/person)
A small hill crowned by an active wat (pagoda) marks the legendary
founding place of the Phnom Penh. The hill is the site of constant
activity, with a steady stream of the faithful trekking to the vihear,
shrines and fortune tellers on top and a constellation of vendors,
visitors and motodups at the bottom. Elephant rides available. The
legend of the founding of Wat Phnom is tied to the beginnings of Phnom
Penh. Legend has it that in 1372 Lady Penh (Yea Penh) fished a floating
Koki tree out of the river. Inside the tree were four Buddha statues.
She built a hill (‘phnom’ means ‘hill’) and a small temple (wat) at what
is now the site known as Wat Phnom. Later, the surrounding area became
known after the hill (Phnom) and its creator (Penh), hence the name of
the city ‘Phnom Penh.’ The current temple was last rebuilt in 1926. The
large stupa contains the remains of King Ponhea Yat (1405-1467) who
moved the Khmer capital from Angkor to Phnom Penh the early 15th
century. Look for the altar of Lady Penh between the large stupa and the
vihear. She is said to be of particular help to women.
 Wat
Langka
Wat Langka is reputedly one of Phnom Penh’s
five original wats (1422). First established as a sanctuary for the Holy
Writings and a meeting place for Cambodian and Sri Lankan monks, the Wat
was named in honor of these meetings. Just southwest of the Independence
Monument.
 Wat
Botum
Significant in part because it is one of the
city’s original wats, possibly founded in 1422 by King Ponhea Yat. Wat
Botum took its current name in 1865 and its present structure in 1937.
Of photographic note: The wat compound is crowded with ornate and
colorful stupas, including the towering ‘Buddha’s Relic Stupa’ pictured
left.
 Wat
Koh
One of the city’s five original wats,
established in the early 15th century. The main building was destroyed
in the 1970s and rebuilt in the 90s. This pagoda has become a refuge for
stray and abandoned house pets. If you want to adopt a cat, this is the
place to come. Located in the heart of the city, on Monivong and Street
174.
 Wat
Ounalom
on the riverfront is reputedly the oldest
Buddhist foundation in the city, probably predating the abandonment of
the capital at Angkor in the 15th century. The founding date is
variously cited as 1422 and 1443. This wat is the home to the Buddhist
patriarch. Sothearos Blvd. about 200m north of the Royal Palace.
Traditional Performances
Cambodia has a long and rich tradition of classical dance, shadow
puppetry and circus, and it has also become tradition for visitors to
attend at least one traditional performance during their stay, most
often, the graceful and ornate ‘Apsara Dance.’ At least a dozen
performance restaurants in Siem Reap City host nightly classical dance
shows, but there are only a few places in Phnom Penh offering regularly
scheduled traditional performances. Fortunately, Sovanna Phum Art
Association in Phnom Penh is one of the best venues in the country,
unlike most place in Siem Reap offering a variety of performance arts
including not only classical dance but shadow puppetry, drama and
circus.
Bopha Phnom Penh
Titanic hosts small nightly ‘Apsara Dance’ performances from
7PM-9PM. Located on Sisowath Quay (the riverfront) next to the Passenger
Port opposite Street 104.
Tel: 092-646361.
Sovanna Phum Art
Association hosts traditional performances every Friday and
Saturday evening at 7:30PM. The show changes weekly between classical
dance performances, shadow puppetry, circuses, music and more. Shadow
puppet workshop. Shadow puppets, traditional musical instruments, masks
and paintings on sale. Open Mon-Sat. #111 Street 360 (corner of Street
105).
Tel: 023-221932, 023-987564
sp.communication@online.com.kh
http://shadow-puppets.org
Veiyo Tonle Restaurant
hosts traditional dance and circus performances by the children of The
New Cambodian Children’s Life Association on Saturday and Monday nights
at 8:00PM. Seating is limited so get there early or call for
reservations. #237, Sisowath Quay on the riverfront.
Tel: 012-847419.
Classes
Cooking Classes
The Cambodia Cooking Class
has been running since 2005 through Khmer restaurant frizz. A day starts
with a tour around a local market. At the cookery school itself it's
hands-on action. You'll make everything from scratch with fresh
ingredients. Classes are held every day on a cool open-air rooftop
terrace. Booking through frizz restaurant, #67 Street 240.
Tel: 012-524801
Website:
www.cambodia-cooking-class.com
For more on Cambodian cookery check out the books: ‘From
Spider to Waterlilies’ by Friends-International.
Dance and shadow puppets
In addition to hosting regularly scheduled traditional performances,
Sovanna Phum Art Association also offers workshops in traditional Khmer
arts such as classical dance, drum, circus and shadow puppet
performance. Private classes in the art of shadow puppet making are
available on request. Open Mon-Sat. #111 Street 360.Tel: 023-221932,
023-987564.
Website:
http://shadow-puppets.org
Humanitarian
Causes, NGOs and Volunteer Opportunities
See
Humanitarian Causes, NGOs
and Volunteer Opportunities page
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