Choeung Ek Memorial

(The Killing Fields)

Hours: 7:30AM - 5:30PM
Admission: $6.00

Location: 15 km southwest of Phnom Penh - Take Monireth 8.5 km past the bridge at Street 271

Many of the Cambodians who perished under the Khmer Rouge regime ended up dumped in one of the dozens of ‘killing fields’ that can be found scattered across the country. The killing fields were essentially ad hoc places of execution and dumping grounds for dead bodies during the Khmer Rouge regime (1975-1979.) After the Khmer Rouge regime, memorials were set up at many of the sites, some containing the bones and remnants of victims gathered from the area.

Prior to 1975, Choeung Ek just outside Phnom Penh was a orchard and a Chinese cemetery. But during the Khmer Rouge regime the area became one of the infamous killing fields. This particular killing field is the site of the brutal executions of more than 17,000 men, women and children, most of whom had first suffered through interrogation, torture and deprivation in the S-21 Prison (now the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum) in Phnom Penh. The Choeung Ek Memorial is now a group of mass graves, killing areas and a memorial stupa containing thousands of human skulls and long bones.  

The memorial is about a 20-40 minute drive from the center of Phnom Penh. Guided tours through the area are available and reasonably priced multi-lingual guides are available at the site. There is also a small souvenir shop as well. For sake of historical context, combine your trip to Choeung Ek with a visit to Toul Sleng Genocide Museum (the former S-21 Prison) in Phnom Penh. (See below.) Also see David Chandler’s book, ‘Voices of S-21’ for the most systematic and complete account to date of the history and operation of the S-21 Prison.

Toul Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21) 
Hours: 8:00AM-5:00PM, daily. Closed for lunch.
Admission: $3.00

Location: Corner of Street 113 & Street 350

Prior to 1975, Toul Sleng was a high school - a set of classroom buildings in a walled compound. When the Khmer Rouge came to power in 1975 they converted into the S-21 prison and interrogation facility, administered by Kaing Guek Eav, a.k.a. ‘Duch.’ Inmates at the prison were held in tiny brick cubicles and systematically tortured, sometimes over a period of months, to extract the desired ‘confessions,’ after which the victim was inevitably executed at the killing field of Choeung Ek just outside the city. S-21 processed over 17,000 people, less than a score of whom are known to have survived.

The Tuol Sleng compound now serves as a museum, a memorial and a testament to the madness of the Khmer Rouge regime. Much has been left in the state it was in when the Khmer Rouge abandoned it in January 1979. The prison kept extensive records, leaving thousands of photos of their victims, many of which are on display. Paintings of torture at the prison by Vann Nath, a survivor of Toul Sleng, are also exhibited. For more on S-21 check out David Chandler’s book, ‘Voices from S-21.’

Domrey Travel & Tours
Half day bus tour to two historic museums - S21 and Choeung Ek Memorial, “the Killing Fields.” Price includes English speaking tour guide, audio tour, introductory documentary, wifi available on the bus and complimentary drinking water. Museum entrance fees not included. Itinerary available on website.
Tel 070-745284
www.bustourkillingfields.com
 

Central Market (Phsar Thmei) 

Hours: Sunrise to sunset
Admission: None

Location: Corner of Street 130 and Street 63

 
This distinctive building is a city landmark - a unique Art Deco interpretation of a traditional market. Four arms of the market converge in a soaring dome at the hub, perhaps reflecting the four arms of the chaktomuk (the convergence of the Mekong River.) Prior to 1935 the market area was a swampy lake known as Beng Decho that received the runoff during the rainy season. The lake was drained and the market constructed in 1935-37 during the French colonial period, and originally dubbed the ‘Grand Market.’

The central section of the market building displays an amazing collection of gems and jewelry. Souvenir vendors along the central entrance walk offer curios, statuary, handicrafts, silks, t-shirts, postcards, etc. (‘Phsar Thmey’ is properly translated ‘New Market’, but ‘Central Market’ has caught on in English.)

Russian Market  (Phsar Toul Tom Poung) (see market map)

Hours: Sunrise to sunset
Admission: None

Location: Street 450, between Streets 155 and 163

This market became the foreigner’s market during the 1980’s when most of the foreigners in Cambodia were Russians, hence the name ‘Russian Market.’ It is of far less architectural interest than the Central Market but has a larger, more varied selection of souvenirs, curios and silks.

The Russian Market became the foreigner’s market during the 1980’s when most of the foreigners in Cambodia were Russians, hence the name ‘Russian Market.’ It is of far less architectural interest than the Central Market but has a larger, more varied selection of souvenirs, curios and silks. Also unlike the Central Market this is a classic traditional market - a sprawling, single level collection of stalls - and offers a larger, more varied selection of souvenirs, curios and silks. It is also one of the best markets in town for fabrics and has the largest selection of DVDs of all the traditional markets. Most of the DVD vendors are on the south side as are most of the visitor-oriented places, but the rest of the market is well worth exploring. There are some good local food and drink stands in the middle of the market.

Phsar Kandal
Hours: Sunrise to sunset
Admission: None

Location: Street 450, between Streets 155 and 163

A typical, sprawling, low-slung local market similar to Phsar Chas. Meat, vegetables, fruits and tailors fill the north half while jewelers and electronics stalls are located in the building next door. It’s a very local scene but as the market is only a couple of blocks off the riverfront tourists occasionally find their way to the coffee stalls and noodle shops. There is a comparatively large Vietnamese population living in the area around Phsar Kandal, which and is reflected in the character of the market - the food, the dress and the language.

Old Market  (Phsar Chas)  
Phsar Chas not at all geared to tourists, carrying such items as fruits and vegetables, hardware, second hand clothes, motorcycle parts and religious items. The late afternoon shopping hour along Street 110 and Street 108 makes for a confusing, dirty, potentially photogenic scene. There has been a market on this site since at the earliest days of the French colonial period (and probably much longer) when it sat next to a now reclaimed river inlet.

Night Market (Phsar Reatrey)
Phnom Penh’s new Night Market on the riverfront is aimed squarely at visitors and tourists, offering a wide and varied selection of Cambodian handicrafts silks, art, curios and souvenirs. Currently the Night Market opens from Thursday to Sunday, starting up at about 5:00PM and runs until at least 10:00 or 11:00PM. Located in the park between Street 106 and 108 on the riverfront. Stop in as you stroll up the riverfront.

Traditional Dance Performance @ the National Museum
The beautiful gardens of the National Museum are the setting for each 60-minute choreographed performance, including several different traditional classical and folk dances. Discover the diversity of Cambodian culture and traditional arts through original and enjoyable pieces.
Performances (October - March): Mon - Sat, 7:00PM
Performances (April - September): Mon - Sat, 7:00PM
Admission: $15
Located in the garden of the National Museum
Tel: 017-998570
bookings@cambodianlivingarts.org
www.cambodianlivingarts.org 

Sovanna Phum Art Association
Striving to revive and promote Cambodian culture. Classical, Folk and Contemporary dance, Shadow theatre, Circus and Music are performed for local and international audiences. Also active in promoting inter-cultural exchanges by interacting with artists from other countries as well as working with NGO/IOs on different educational and awareness projects. Also available for private and commercial events.
Performances every Friday and Saturday, 7:30PM.
Admission: Adult : $10; Children: $5
#166 Street 99
Tel: 012-837056, 012-846020
www.sovannaphumtheatre.com
www.facebook.com/sovannaphum.art

Feel Good Cooking School / Street Food Tours
Khmer cooking classing by experienced Cambodian cooking teachers at Feel Good Cafe. Featuring a trip to a traditional market to shop for ingredients. In class, individual cooking stations. Also offering Evening Street Food Tours.
#79 Street 136 (Feel Good Cafe)
Tel: 098-252533 

La Table Khmere
Well-reviewed Cambodian cooking classes in Boeung Keng Kang 1 (BKK1) at La Table Khmere restaurant. Daily, half-day classes, morning and afternoon, including a trip to the market and hands-on preparation in a modern kitchen environment.
#11A Street 278, BKK1 (La Table Khmere restaurant)
Tel: 012-238068

www.phnompenh-cooking-class.com

Wat Botum

Location: Street 7, 100 meters from the

Royal Palace

Wat Botum is a colorful, photogenic wat, the compound crowded with ornate stupas, including the towering ‘Buddha’s Relic Stupa.’ Though Wat Botum took its present structure in 1937 it is one of the city’s original wats, possibly founded by King Ponhea Yat in the 15th century, the first king to rule from Phnom Penh.

Wat Koh

Location: Located in the heart of the city, on Monivong and Street 174.

One of the city’s five original wats, established in the early 15th century. The main building was destroyed in the 1970s and rebuilt in the 90s. This pagoda has become a refuge for stray and abandoned house pets. If you want to adopt a cat, this is the place to come.

Wat Langka

Location: Just southwest of the Independence Monument

In Boeung Keng Kang (BKK1) near the Independence Monument. Reputedly one of Phnom Penh’s original wats (1422). Estab-lished as a sanctuary for the Holy Writings and a meeting place for Khmer and Sri Lankan monks, and named in honor of the meetings.

Wat Phnom (see above)

Location: North end of Norodom Blvd.

Small hill crowned by an active wat (pagoda) marks the legendary founding place of the Phnom Penh. The hill is the site of constant activity, with a steady stream of the faithful trekking to the vihear, shrines and fortune tellers on top and a constellation of vendors, visitors and motodups at the bottom.

The legend of the founding of Wat Phnom is tied to the beginnings of... (see above)

Wat Ounalom

Location: Sothearos Blvd. about 200m north of the Royal Palace

This sprawling pagoda in the heart of the riverfront district is as impressive from across the street as the interior - its golden temples and towering stupas defining the streetscape. It is also particularly accustomed to receiving walk-in visitors. Wat Ounalom is the home to the Buddhist patriarch and is reputedly the oldest Buddhist foundation in the city, probably predating the abandonment of Angkor in the 15th century.