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Set aside two or three days to visit the major points
of interest in Phnom Penh. It is possible to squeeze the most important
points into a single day, but this leaves very little time at each site.
Except for the ‘Killing Fields’ which are about 16km away, all of the
other major points of interest are inside the city within a five or ten
minute car/moto ride of each other. There are several Angkorian-era
ruins and other historic sites 20-60km (45 minute - 1.5 hours travel)
from Phnom Penh.
The Sights
 Independence Monument
(At the intersection of Norodom and Sihanouk)
The Independence Monument (Vimean Ekareach) was inaugurated in November 9,
1962 to celebrate Cambodia’s independence from foreign rule. Renowned
Cambodian architect, Vann Molyvann was the architect of the monument.
The Independence Monument now also serves as a monument to Cambodia’s
war dead. It is the site of colorful celebrations and services on
holidays such as Independence Day and Constitution Day.
 National Museum
(Street 178 & Street 13, next to the Royal Palace - $3.00 - 8:00-5:00,
open everyday)
The distinctive rust-red National Museum
next to the Royal Palace was dedicated by King Sisowath in 1920.
Over 5000 objects are on display including Angkorian era statues, lingas
and other artifacts, most notably the legendary statue of the ‘Leper
King.’ Though the emphasis is on Angkorian artifacts, there is also a
good collection of pieces from later periods, including a special
exhibition of post-Angkorian Buddha figures. Visiting the museum after
rather than before a trip to the
Angkor Archaeological Park in Siem Reap helps lend context to
the Angkorian artifacts. Multi-lingual tour guides are available.
Souvenirs and books available. Photography is limited. The museum
borders Street 178, aka
‘Artist’s Street’ which is lined with local art galleries and souvenir
shops. The Reyum Gallery on Street 178
is of particular note, exhibiting the works of contemporary Cambodian
artists.
 Royal Palace and ‘Silver Pagoda’
(Sothearos between Streets 240 & 184 - $3.00/person, $2.00/camera, $5.00/video cam. Open everyday, 7:30-11:00 / 2:30-5:00)
he Royal Palace in Phnom Penh was constructed over a century ago to
serve as the residence of the King of Cambodia, his family and foreign
dignitaries, as a venue for the performance of court ceremony and ritual
and as a symbol of the Kingdom. It serves to this day as the Cambodian
home of King Norodom Sihamoni and former King Norodom Sihanouk. The
Royal Palace complex and attached 'Silver Pagoda' compound consist of
several buildings, structures and gardens all located within 500x800
meter walled grounds overlooking a riverfront park. Marking the approach
to the Palace, the high sculpted wall and golden spired Chanchhaya
Pavilion stand distinctively against the riverfront skyline. Inside the
Palace grounds, street sounds are silenced by the high walls and the
various Royal buildings sit like ornate islands rising from the
tranquil, manicured tropical gardens. Except for the area of the actual
Royal residence, the Khemarin Palace, most of the Palace grounds and
Silver Pagoda are open to the public. Enter from the gate on Sothearos
Blvd about 100 meters north of Street 240...(more)
 Wat Phnom
(Intersection of Street 96 and Norodom Blvd. - $1/person)
A small hill crowned by an active wat (pagoda) marks the legendary
founding place of the Phnom Penh. The hill is the site of constant
activity, with a steady stream of the faithful trekking to the vihear,
shrines and fortune tellers on top, and a constellation of vendors,
visitors and motodups at the bottom. Elephant rides available. The
legend of the founding of Wat Phnom is tied to the beginnings of Phnom
Penh. Legend has it that in 1372 Lady Penh (Yea Penh) fished a floating
Koki tree out of the river. Inside the tree were four Buddha statues.
She built a hill (‘phnom’ means ‘hill’) and a small temple (wat) at what
is now the site of what is now known as Wat Phnom. Later, the
surrounding area became known after the hill (Phnom) and its creator
(Penh), hence ‘Phnom Penh.’ The current temple was last rebuilt in 1926.
The large stupa contains the remains of King Ponhea Yat (1405-1467) who
moved the Khmer capital from Angkor to Phnom Penh in 1422. Look for the
altar of Lady Penh between the large stupa and the vihear. She is said
to be of particular help to women. Wat Phnom is the busiest pagoda in
town the night of Chinese/Vietnamese New Year’s Eve.
 Choeung Ek Memorial (The Killing Fields)
(15 km southwest of Phnom Penh - Take Monireth 8.5 km past the bridge at
Street 271) From April 17, 1975 until January 7, 1979, the
ultra-Communist Khmer Rouge (i.e. Red Khmer) regime, led by Pol Pot,
controlled the whole of Cambodia. Under the Khmer Rouge regime the
country was known as ‘Democratic Kampuchea.’ During the short reign of
the Khmer Rouge, between one million and two and a half million
Cambodians perished, some killed outright, others dying from disease,
malnutrition, neglect and mistreatment. Many of the dead ended up in
various ‘killing fields’ that can be found scattered across the country.
The killing fields were essentially ad hoc places of execution and
dumping grounds for dead bodies. The memorial at Choeung Ek just outside
Phnom Penh was an orchard and a Chinese cemetery prior to 1975. During
the Khmer Rouge regime it became one of the killing fields - this
particular killing field is the site of the brutal executions of more
than 17,000 men, women and children, most of whom first suffered through
interrogation, torture and deprivation in the S-21 Prison (Toul Sleng)
in Phnom Penh. Choeung Ek is now a group of mass graves and a memorial
stupa containing thousands of skulls. It’s about a 20-40 minute drive
from the center of Phnom Penh. There are guides available at the site,
and a small souvenir shop. For sake of historical context, combine your
trip to Choeung Ek with a visit to Toul Sleng Genocide Museum.
 Toul Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21)
(Corner of Street 113 & Street 350 - $2.00 - Open everyday, including
holidays, 8AM-5PM - Closed for lunch)
Prior to 1975, Toul Sleng was a high school. When the Khmer Rouge came
to power it was converted into the S-21 prison and interrogation
facility. Inmates were systematically tortured, sometimes over a period
of months, to extract confessions, after which they were executed at the
killing fields of Choeung Ek. S-21 processed over 17,000 people, seven
of whom survived. The building now serves as a museum, a memorial and a
testament to the madness of the Khmer Rouge regime. Much has been left
in the state it was when the Khmer Rouge abandoned it in January 1979.
The prison kept extensive records, leaving thousands of photos of their
victims, many of which are on display. Paintings of torture at the
prison by Vann Nath, a survivor of Toul Sleng, are also on display. The
museum’s famous and controversial ‘skull map’ is no longer on display.
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River Cruise
Short river cruises and dinner cruises along the Phnom Penh
riverfront are becoming
more popular. A short cruise typically takes about 1-1/2 - 2 hours and
runs up the Tonle Sap River along the central riverfront area providing
a picturesque view of the Royal Palace, National Museum, parks
and Phnom Penh skyline, and then across the Tonle Sap and up the Mekong
River to view floating fishing villages. (Photography note: Best
lighting in the early morning as the low eastern sun illuminates the
front of the Palace.)
Tourist boats of varying size and quality wait along
the riverfront between Street
178 and Street 130 (look for their small riverfront signs) and at
the Passenger Port near Street 104. For a short riverfront cruise, just
contact one of the tourist boats. Prices start at about $10/hour. The
unique Kanika catamaran is docked opposite Street 136 - a
spacious, modern boat offering a 'High-Tea' cruise from 4PM-6PM and
dinner from 6PM-9PM. Private parties, charter cruises. Proceeds go to
the Seametrey NGO educational and environmental projects. Tel:
012-848802 (See Restaurant listings for more.) Chenla Luxury Boat
Restaurant & Bar runs lunch and dinner cruises by reservation on a
deluxe river boat. Call for reservations: 012-758992.
 The River Front
Some of Phnom Penh's most important cultural sites as well as dozens of
pubs, restaurants and shops sit along the picturesque park-lined
riverfront overlooking the chaktomuk - the confluence of the
Tonle Sap, Mekong and Bassac
Rivers. The Royal Palace, the Silver Pagoda and the National
Museum are clustered together between
Street 178 and
240 and restaurants and
pubs line the riverfront road
Sisowath Quay, stretching north from the Royal Palace area
all the way to Street 104
near Wat Phnom. Visit the Royal Palace and National
Museum and stroll up the riverfront for a drink or a meal or to do
some shopping. Just off the riverfront,
Street 240 behind the Royal
Palace harbors several restaurants and
high-quality boutiques and
Street 178 next to the National
Museum is known as 'Art Street' and is dotted with interesting
little art galleries and silk shops. Early
risers, check out the spectacular sunrise over the river in front of the
Royal Palace area.
Traditional Markets
In Cambodia it is the women who take charge of trade...
Market is held everyday from six o'clock...
they display their goods on matting spread upon the ground.
Each has an allotted place...
excerpt from The Customs of Cambodia
by Zhou Daguan circa 1300AD
A trip to at least one traditional market (phsar) is a must. If you
visit only one or two markets, begin with the Russian Market and the
Central Market. Both offer curios, souvenirs and a cultural shopping
adventure. Other markets such as the Old Market (Phsar Chas) have far
fewer items for tourists but can still be photographically intriguing.
The markets open and close with the sun but are fairly sleepy between
11:30AM and 2:00PM.
 Central Market (Psah Thmei)
This unique, art-deco building is a Phnom Penh landmark. Prior to 1935
the area was a swamp/lake that received the runoff during the rainy
season. The lake was drained and the market constructed in 1935-37. Wet
season flooding in the area around the market of the market is a vestige
of the old lake. The entrance to the market is lined with souvenir
merchants hawking everything from T-shirts and postcards to silver
curios and kramas. Inside is a dazzling display of jewels and gold.
Electronic goods, stationery, secondhand clothes and flowers are also in
ample supply. (Phsar Thmei means ‘New Market’, but ‘Central Market’ has
caught on in English.)
 Russian Market (Psah Toul Tom Poung)
This market is of far less architectural interest but has a larger and
more varied selection of souvenirs, curios and silks than the Central
Market. Like the Central Market, it has a good selection of silver, gold
and jewels, but also carries huge selection of curios, silks, carvings,
etc. The Russian Market offers the largest selection of bootlegged VCDs,
DVDs and CDs of all of the traditional markets. Most of the CD vendors
are located on the south side near the southeast corner of the market.
It’s also a good place to buy fabric for business and casual cloths to
take to the tailor. Most of what the visitor might want is in the same
general area on the south side but the rest of the market is well worth
exploring. Food and drink stands in the middle of the market for
hygienically adventurous visitors.
Old Market (Psah Chas)
A truly local market offering goods such as fruits and vegetables, second hand clothes, hardware and religious articles. In the late afternoon food vendors and fruit sellers spread their mats and set up their stalls in and along street 13 in preparation for an evening market. The dinner rush makes for a confusing, pungent, dirty, potentially photogenic
scene.
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