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Sitting on the Sangker River just south west of the
Tonle Sap Lake, Battambang town is at the heart of Cambodia's 'rice bowl', and even though it is the country's second biggest town, it still has a very local, untouristed, provincial atmosphere. Much of the architecture is French colonial and traditional Cambodian. Few buildings are over three stories, and the main streets are shared by cars and horse carts alike. Unlike more touristed towns, the local economy is truly local - based firmly in rice, wood, sapphires and food
crops - and is reflected in the character of the town. Similarly, as you leave Battambang by road, the scene quickly becomes one of small villages, rice paddies, and farmland, offering an excellent opportunity for the visitor to see a bit of 'unspoiled' rural Cambodia. The nearby countryside also harbors old
pagodas, Angkorian era ruins, caves, waterfalls, and even Khmer Rouge period killing fields.
Battambang means ‘disappearing stick’, and is named after a powerful
stick used by a legendary Khmer king to achieve and maintain power
in the Battambang area. |
Getting to Battambang
Air: At time of printing there are no flights to Battambang.
Siem Reap to Battambang
Boat Daily ferry departs in each direction at 7:00am.
$20-$25/person. It's a picturesque, 6-8 hour journey across the
Tonle Sap and along the Sangker River in the wet season, but can be
considerably longer in the dry season due to low water levels. Ask
about current conditions. The boats in no way meet international
safety standards. There is no direct boat from Phnom Penh.
Road (National Routes #6 and #5, via Sisophon): The
road from Battambang to Siem Reap around the west side of the lake
is in excellent condition. The perennially broken stretch between
Siem Reap and Sisophon has been fully repaired.
Bus: Two bus companies (Neak Krorhorm and Rith Mony)
run multiple daily a/c buses. Buy tickets at the bus company office
(see map.) $4-$5, 4 hours.
Taxi: A private taxi costs $40-$50 and takes 3-4 hours
Phnom Penh to Battambang
Road (291km, National Route #5): The road is paved and
in good condition.
Bus Several bus companies (including Phnom Penh Sorya,
GST, Neak Krorhorm and Capitol Tours) run multiple daily buses
between Phnom Penh to Battambang. First bus departs at 6:30AM and
the last at 2:30 or 3:00PM. Fare: 17,000R-20,000R. The trip takes 5
hours. In Battambang, buses depart from the various transportation
company offices. See the map.
Taxi A private taxi is $35 - $45. Shared taxi: 25,000R
per person. 4 hours. Prices for shared local transport are very
nominal, but are also crowded and uncomfortable. Buy more than one
place for the extra leg room..
Getting Around Battambang
Like most of Cambodia, the choice is motorcycle taxi (motodup), rent
a car with driver, or rent a motorcycle. Your hotel can arrange a
car or motorcycle rental. Cars are about $20/day and motorcycle
rental runs $5-$8/day - a bit more expensive than other towns.
Motodups are plentiful during the day. Just step onto the street and
they will find you. They can be much more difficult to find at
night. A ride in town should range 500 to 1500 riel.
Battambang Hotels/Guesthouses
The Bungalow Guesthouse and Restaurant
Range: $12-$20
Clean, new guesthouse and bungalows on a
quiet street. Unique stone bungalows, and very large guesthouse
rooms with fan or a/c, CTV, hot water. Good restaurant serving
Khmer, Thai and Western food. Free bicycle use for guests. Cultural,
village and NGO tours can be arranged.
Tel: 012-916123
info@thebungaloweb.com
www.thebungaloweb.com
Bus Stop Guesthouse
Range: $10-$20
Clean, Australian managed guesthouse in
the center of town offering fan and a/c rooms with cable TV, en
suite bathroom. Lightning fast wifi internet access in the
restaurant and rooms. Western food. Free laundry service. Tour
services and expert travel advice. Motorcycle rental.
Tel: 053-730544
E-mail:
info@busstopcambodia.com
Website:
www.busstopcambodia.com
Colors & Tents
Range: $10-$40 Breakfast included.
A/c guesthouse rooms in a traditional Khmer-style stilted wooden
house on the river road (east side.) Restaurant. In-room wifi. Tent
camping available. Special discount: stay 3 nights, pay for 2.
Tel: 011-876322, 011-876344
mamaisongroup@gmail.com
http://mamaisonbattambang.hi5.com
Khemara Battambang I Hotel
Range: $15 - $250
92 rooms. A/c rooms and suites with all
amenities: cable TV, fridge, en suite with hot water. Swimming pool.
Located in a quiet area. Large parking area. Karaoke rooms.
Conference rooms and banquet facilities. Free Wifi in rooms.
Restaurant.
Tel: 053-737878, 017-612168 Fax: 053-732626
E-mail: admin@khemerahotel.com
/ gm@khemarahotel.com
Website: www.khemarahotel.com
La Villa
Range: $60-$85
Nicely restored 1930s colonial house.
Seven rooms with a/c and fan, stylishly decorated with antiques and
Art Deco furniture. Western and Asian food and a wide selection of
cocktails served in the a/c restaurant or garden. Swimming pool.
Tel: 053-730751, 089-930151
E-mail: lavilla@online.com.kh
Website:
www.lavilla-battambang.com
Ma Maison á Battambang
Range: $65 Breakfast included
Restored colonial villa (maison d’hote) on the river road.
Traditional decor, a/c rooms with en suite bathroom with hot water.
In-room wifi. Dipping pool. Dinner on request. Special discount:
stay 3 nights, pay for 2.
Tel: 011-876322, 011-876344
mamaisongroup@gmail.com
http://colorsofbattambang.hi5.com
Paris Hotel
Range: $10-$12
Recently renovated, clean, centrally
located hotel with a/c rooms with cable TV, fridge and en suite
bathrooms with hot water. Some with balcony. Street 3, downtown near
Phsar Nath.
Tel: 012-530730
Stung Sangke Hotel
Range: $40-$100
Brand new quality hotel offering 207
well appointed rooms and suites. Swimming pool. Restaurant. Soho
Club.
Tel: 053-953495
E-mail:
info@stungsangkehotel.com
Website:
www.stungsangkehotel.com
Teo Hotel
$11-$44
Immaculately clean en suite
a/c rooms with cable TV and hot water. Meeting room. Restaurant. A
favorite for NGO and business travelers.
MC
Tel: +(855) (0)12-857048
Battambang Restaurants/Bars
Bus Stop Guesthouse Western run
bar and restaurant offering good western and Khmer food. Western
breakfasts, burgers, fries, cold beer, full bar, music. Good source
of local information. The fastest wifi in town. Located on Street 2
next to the White Rose.
www.busstopcambodia.com
The Bungalow Guesthouse Restaurant
Guesthouse restaurant and bar with an photo extensive menu of Khmer
and Thai dishes as well as some western food including burgers and
pizzas. Comfortable place. Good food. Some of the best coffee in
town.
Champey Garden Restaurant Local restaurant with a clean, comfortable
atmosphere. Serving very good Cambodian, Thai and even some Lao
dishes. Very reasonably priced food and draft beer. Recommended.
Chinese Noodle Restaurant Inexpensive local restaurant Just a
few doors down from the White Rose. Very good fresh made noodles,
noodle soup, lots of Chinese dishes. Good place for a local
breakfast noodle soup (kuiteo) or fried meat and rice.
H & H (Khmer Delight) Restaurant
Offering Asian/ European fusion cuisine – an interesting array of
choices of food, including such Khmer favorites as Lok Lak and
desserts, and dishes from Indonesia, Italy, Australia and France.
Famous Battambang fruit shakes. Beer and wine.
Juniper - the Gin Den An eclectic venue located in the corner
of street 1 ½ where it turns to join Street 2. Food includes pizza,
Indian curries, and Khmer fusion. World music & retro, Secondhand
books, Scrabble, and of course Bombay and Tanqueray. Open 6.30pm.
La Villa The finest
western dining in Battambang. Excellent western and Asian food and a
wide range of cocktails served in an a/c restaurant or the garden
patio of a nicely restored 1930s colonial villa. Wine selection.
Western managed. Located on the river road on the east side of the
river.
www.lavilla-battambang.com
Pkay Proek Well-known, popular Cambodian restaurant and beer
garden catering primarily to locals and serving Cambodian, Thai and
other Asian dishes. Good place for an authentic Cambodian dinner.
Located on Street 2, south of the Teo Hotel.
Pomme D’Amour Lovely little
French restaurant in the center of town offering traditional French,
western and locally inspired fare. Wine, cocktails and Italian
coffee. Attention to detail. Nice place for a romantic dinner.
Reasonably priced. Street 2-1/2.
Pure Cafe Cozy cafe/bar in the center of town serving Asian
and some western snacks and meals including a goodly variety of
curries. Full bar, cold beers, spirits and some cocktails. Art and
books. Street 2-1/2.
Riverside Balcony The name says it. Very pleasant riverside
location. Western managed balcony bar and restaurant hovering over
the banks of a quiet stretch of the Sangker River. Beer, spirits and
good conversation. Burgers, pasta, enchiladas, specials on the
board.
Scoop Late night bar and cafe
specializing in cocktails. Sports bar with big screen TV upstairs.
Snacks and meals coming soon. Often open till 2:00AM or later.
Smokin Pot Well-known and popular with travelers. Serving
authentic Khmer and Thai food. Also running half-day Cambodian
cooking courses. Tel: 012-821400
Sunrise Coffeehouse Western style bakery/cafe offering a
variety of pastries, pizza, pies and cookies, western breakfasts and
a good selection of coffees and teas. Sign the wall to mark your
visit to Battambang. Located at the back of town near the Royal
Hotel. 6:30AM - 5:00PM. Tel: 053-953426
White Rose Long popular with the NGO crowd, this small,
corner shop Cambodian restaurant offers an extensive menu, good
Cambodian food, ice cream, reasonable prices and ponderous service.
Street 2.. 6:30AM - 10PM.
Battambang: What to See
Battambang City is absolutely full of wonderful colonial-era
architecture and historic old pagodas, and the surrounding
countryside harbors not only Angkorian-era temple ruins and pagodas
but also offers some of the most picturesque rice paddy and village
scenery in the country. The new edition of Ray Zepp’s essential
guide to Battambang and the surrounding area, Around Battambang,
is available at tourist hotels and restaurants throughout Battambang
City. Zepp’s 164 page guide contains invaluable information on
Battambang’s historic pagodas, Angkorian era temple ruins,
surrounding countryside and local travel details. Highly recommended.
Bamboo Train The bamboo train is a unique
and creative form of ad-hoc local transportation. It consists of a
small (perhaps 2.5m x 4m), motorcycle engine-powered bamboo cart
that rides the railroad rails picking up and dropping off
passengers, cargo, animals, motorcycles along the way. When it meets
on on-coming train or bamboo train, it can be disassembled and taken
off the rails in a minute or two, allowing the other to pass. When
touring the countryside ask your driver to take you to a rail
crossing where you can meet a bamboo train to take a ride.
Circus In partnership with Asian Trails, the Phare
Ponleu Selpak NGO gives Cambodian children from poor and
disabled families the opportunity to “have access to culture via
different artistic activities” including music, drawing drama,
dancing and circus. See traditional Cambodian circus acts daily
beginning at 7:00PM or 8:00PM. US$6 admission. Contact Asian
Trails (Tel/Fax: 053-730088 in Battambang, or 023-216555 in
Phnom Penh), or the Phare Ponleu Selpak office (Tel: 053-952424,
012-890360) for the schedule. Located on Route #5 about 1km west of
town.
Website:
www.phareps.org
.
Cooking Classes The Smokin Pot
restaurant offers Khmer and Thai food cooking classes on request.
Class daily from 9:00AM - 1:30PM at the Smokin Pot. Learn
three recipes and prepare lunch in the process. Book a class at the
Smokin Pot a day in advance.
Countryside Tour The rural countryside outside of Battambang is National Geographic picturesque. Within just a few kilometers of town the countryside turns into small villages filled with stilted houses and rice paddies that stretch to the horizon. You’ll see plenty of countryside on the way to any of the local sites. Check out some of the local products in the making - rice paper, noodles and the fishpaste market. It’s all very traditional if not a bit unhygienic and smelly,
but a interesting experience and adventure nonetheless. The roads are often rough and
during the dry season. always exceptionally dusty. Bring a good hat and a krama to cover your nose and mouth.
Ek Phnom is an 11th century Angkorian-era ruin built as a Hindu temple under Suryavarman I. The temple consists of prasats on a platform with some carvings in pretty good condition. Wat Ek Phnom, a modern pagoda, sits next to the ruin. The river road drive to Ek Phnom from Battambang passes through
small villages and rice paddies and is an absolutely beautiful countryside
drive.
Phnom Banan is a mountain top, 11th century Angkorian-era ruin consisting of five prasats. Peaceful location with a nice view of the area. Also L’Ang But Meas cave. Very old (150 years+) active pagoda at the base of the mountain.
Pagodas Both Battambang town and the surrounding countryside are replete with pagodas, some of them very old and
highly respected. See Ray Zepp's book Around Battambang for complete information about visiting the local pagodas.
Phnom Sampeou Mountain, steeped in legend, and topped by Wat Sampeou and a group of caves used as ‘killing caves’ by the Khmer Rouge, containing the skeletal remains of their victims. The wat is unexceptional but the view is spectacular. Ask about the legend of Neang Rumsay Sok.
Provincial
Museum The Battambang Provincial Museum on the riverfront in the
center of town houses a large collection of Angkorian and
pre-Angkorian artifacts - statues, carvings, bits of ancient
temples, pottery, etc. One of the best provincial museums. Hours:
8AM-11AM/2PM-5PM, make reservations for weekend visit and they will
open the door for you. Admission: $1. Tel: 092-914688, 016-896727.
Shopping in Battambang
Phsar Nath in the center of town is the main phsar
(traditional market) and is geared to the locals, sporting the usual
variety of fruits, vegetables, meat, clothes, sundries, food stalls,
etc. Gem dealers, a couple of banks, photo shops and moneychangers
line the streets that ring the phsar. Phsar Leu, just south of town,
seems to be the place to buy the local specialties: oranges and
pomelos from Pursat province. The oranges are said to be the best
oranges in the country.
Chea Heang Drink Shop is a small convenience store on the
west side of Phsar Nath, popular with foreigners and offering ice
cream bars, cheeses, yogurt, wines, and other imported items.
The Smiling Sky Bookshop Second hand bookshop dealing in
English language books - Cambodia related titles, novels, popular
literature. Buy sell trade. On Road #2 near the White Rose.
Local goods Marble sculpture from Pursat province, woodcarvings from Battambang and sapphires from Pailin dominate the souvenir market in Battambang. Many of the hotels as well as the small souvenir/art/curios shops on Road #1 on the river in the center of town offer a selection of wood and marble products. The art shops have a better selection than the hotels and a couple have very interesting collections of curios, old trinkets, coins, antiques and oddities - well worth a look.
Cambodian sapphires and rubies mined in Pailin near the Thai border are brought to Battambang to be graded, cut and polished. There are some good deals on stones in Battambang but be very careful when buying. Fake and low quality jewel scams are common so you need to know gemology or know your gem dealer very well. Gem and gold dealers are located in the center of Psah Nath, in little shops surrounding the psah, and in a few shops on Road #1.
Internet/Phone in Battambang
There are Internet shops all over town. KCT Internet Cafés
has a shop next to the White Rose restaurant. Teo Hotel
also has a small Internet shop. Access is relatively fast and
stable. About $1.50/hour. Most internet shops offer very inexpensive
internet phone. Bus Stop Guesthouse has free wifi, probably
the fastest in town.
Banks in Battambang
Money Like the rest of Cambodia, the Cambodian riel is the
official currency but the US Dollar is the de facto tender. Hotel
prices are set in dollars. Unique to Battambang and western
Cambodia, Thai baht is in common use as well.
Banks and ATMs All banks encash travelers checks and change
money and most have ATMs. Canadia Bank, UCB and ANZ Royal
are located in front of Phsar Nath, all with ATMs. The ACLEDA
Bank on the east side of the river offers Western Union.
Moneychanger/goldsellers are concentrated around the market with a
few along Road #1.
Canadia Bank
Plc.
Full range of banking services, including MoneyGram, Traveler Cheque
& Foreign Exchange
The North of Phsar Thom Market, Battambang
Tel: (855-53) 952 267 Fax: (855-53) 952 005
Telex: CANADIA KA36188, SWIFT Code: CADI KH PP
E-mail: canadia.bb@canadiabank.com.kh
Web-site: www.canadiabank.com
Updated 05/09
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