|
|
Sitting on the Sangker River just south west of the
Tonle Sap Lake, Battambang town is at the heart of Cambodia's 'rice bowl', and even though it is the country's second biggest town, it still has a very local, untouristed, provincial atmosphere. Much of the architecture is French colonial and traditional Cambodian. Few buildings are over three stories, and the main streets are shared by cars and horse carts alike. Unlike more touristed towns, the local economy is truly local - based firmly in rice, wood, sapphires and food
crops - and is reflected in the character of the town. Similarly, as you leave Battambang by road, the scene quickly becomes one of small villages, rice paddies, and farmland, offering an excellent opportunity for the visitor to see a bit of 'unspoiled' rural Cambodia. The nearby countryside also harbors old
pagodas, Angkorian era ruins, caves, waterfalls, and even Khmer Rouge period killing fields.
Battambang means ‘disappearing stick’, and is named after a powerful
stick used by a legendary Khmer king to achieve and maintain power
in the Battambang area. |
Getting to Battambang
Air: At time of printing there are no flights to Battambang.
Siem Reap to Battambang
Boat: Siem Reap to Battambang Daily ferry departs Siem
Reap for Battambang at 7:00am. $12-$15/person. It's a picturesque,
4-7 hour journey across the Tonle Sap and up the Sangker River in
the wet season, but can be considerably longer in the dry season due
to low water levels. Ask about current conditions. The boats in no
way meet international safety standards. There is no direct boat
from Phnom Penh.
Road: Siem Reap to Battambang (National Routes #6 and
#5, via Sisophon): Much of the stretch between Siem Reap and
Sisophon is in poor condition. The road from Sisophon to Battambang
is in good condition. Taxi: A private taxi is $30-$35. 3-5 hours.
Phnom Penh to Battambang
Road: Phnom Penh to Battambang (291km, National Route
#5): The road is paved and in good condition.
Bus: Neak Krorhorm Travel (012-956670), Rith
Mony, GST, Capitol Guesthouse (023-217627) and
Phnom Penh Sorya Transport
(023-210359), all offer several daily buses between from
Phnom Penh to Battambang. Call for schedule and location. All charge
$4-$4.50 with departures all day long, but most departing in the
morning before noon. The trip takes 5 hours. In Battambang, buses
depart from the various transportation company offices near the taxi
stand and on Route #5. See the Battambang map for exact locations.
Taxi A private taxi is $35 - $40. Shared taxi:
25,000R per person. 4 hours. Prices for local transport are very
nominal, but are also crowded and uncomfortable. Buy more than one
place for the extra leg room.
Train: The train cars are old and the system in a poor
state, but the train between Battambang and Phnom Penh is still
running, one a week. To Battambang departs 6:20AM Saturday. To Phnom
Penh departs 6:30AM Sunday. 22,000R/person. 12 hours. For the
adventurous only.
Getting Around Battambang
Like most of Cambodia, the choice is motorcycle taxi (motodup), rent
a car with driver, or rent a motorcycle. Your hotel can arrange a
car or motorcycle rental. Cars are about $20/day and motorcycle
rental runs $5-$8/day - a bit more expensive than other towns.
Motodups are plentiful during the day. Just step onto the street and
they will find you. They can be much more difficult to find at
night. A ride in town should range 500 to 1500 riel.
Battambang Hotels/Guesthouses
Bus Stop Guesthouse
$6-$20
B/FRF Clean, new western managed
guesthouse in the center of town offering fan and a/c rooms with
cable TV, en suite bathroom. Wifi internet access. Western
breakfasts.
Tel: +(855) (0)53-730544
E-mail:
info@busstopcambodia.com
Website:
www.busstopcambodia.com
La Villa
$40-$50
F/SRF Nicely restored 1930s
colonial house. Six rooms with a/c and fan, stylishly decorated with
antiques and Art Deco furniture. Western and Asian food and a wide
selection of cocktails served in the a/c restaurant or garden. Tel:
+(855) (0)12-991801, +(855) (0)53-730151
E-mail: lavilla@online.com.kh
Website:
www.lavilla-battambang.com
Park Hotel
$5-$12
B/FRF Overlooking a nice little
park near the entrance to town. A/c and fan rooms with attached
bathroom, cable TV, hot water and fridge. Free pick up.
Tel: +(855) (0)53-953773, +(855) (0)12-817170
E-mail:
park_hotelbtb@yahoo.com
Spring Park Hotel
$6-$35
B/FRF Located near the New Iron
Bridge at the south end of town. A/c and fan rooms with all
amenities including IDD and Internet port. En suite bathroom.
Conference room. Elevator. Free Pick up. Boat, bus tickets
available.
Tel: +(855) (0)12-849999
E-mail: spparkhotel@yahoo.com
Star Hotel
$10-$48
FRF Hotel offering en suite a/c
rooms with cable TV, mini-bar, wood furniture and nice decor.
Private balconies. Internet. Tour and transportation services.
Travelers checks accepted.
Visa
Tel: +(855) (0)12-894862, +(855) (0)16-944955
Website:
www.asrhotel.com
Teo Hotel
$11-$44
FRF Immaculately clean en suite
a/c rooms with cable TV and hot water. Meeting room. Restaurant. A
favorite for NGO and business travelers.
MC
Tel: +(855) (0)12-857048
Battambang Restaurants/Bars
Chinese Noodle Restaurant
Inexpensive local restaurant Just a few doors down from the White
Rose. Very good fresh made noodles, noodle soup, lots of Chinese
dishes. Good local breakfast place.
La Villa Western and Asian food and a wide range of cocktails
served in an a/c restaurant or garden of a nicely restore 1930s
colonial villa. Western managed.
Tel: 012-991801
Phkay Proek Popular local restaurant serving Thai, Khmer and
Chinese dishes. Good place for a real Cambodian dinner where the
locals dine. Occasional live music in the evenings. 6AM - 10PM
Riverside Balcony The name says it. Very pleasant riverside
location. Western managed balcony bar and restaurant hovering over
the banks of a quiet stretch of the Sangker River. Beer, spirits and
good conversation. Burgers, pasta, enchiladas, specials on the
board.
Tel: 053-730313
Smokin Pot Well-known of \\n the traveler’s circuit. Serving
authentic Khmer and Thai food and also runs half-day Cambodian
cooking courses. Tel: 012-821400
Sunrise Coffeehouse Western style bakery/cafe with a variety
of pastries, pizza, pies and cookies, western breakfasts and a good
selection of coffees and teas Located at the back of town near the
Royal Hotel. Open 6:30AM-5PM, closed Sundays.
White Rose Long popular with the NGO/IO crowd, this small,
corner shop Cambodian restaurant offers an extensive menu of very
reasonably priced Cambodian and Thai food. 6:30AM - 10PM.
Battambang: What to See
Battambang City is absolutely full of wonderful colonial-era
architecture and historic old pagodas, and the surrounding
countryside harbors not only Angkorian-era temple ruins and pagodas
but also offers some of the most picturesque rice paddy and village
scenery in the country. The new edition of Ray Zepp’s essential
guide to Battambang and the surrounding area, Around Battambang,
is available at tourist hotels and restaurants throughout Battambang
City. Zepp’s 164 page guide contains invaluable information on
Battambang’s historic pagodas, Angkorian era temple ruins,
surrounding countryside and local travel details. Highly recommended.
Bamboo Train The bamboo train is a unique
and creative form of ad-hoc local transportation. It consists of a
small (perhaps 2.5m x 4m), motorcycle engine-powered bamboo cart
that rides the railroad rails picking up and dropping off
passengers, cargo, animals, motorcycles along the way. When it meets
on on-coming train or bamboo train, it can be disassembled and taken
off the rails in a minute or two, allowing the other to pass. When
touring the countryside ask your driver to take you to a rail
crossing where you can meet a bamboo train to take a ride.
Circus In partnership with Asian Trails, the Phare
Ponleu Selpak NGO gives Cambodian children from poor and
disabled families the opportunity to “have access to culture via
different artistic activities” including music, drawing drama,
dancing and circus. See traditional Cambodian circus acts daily
beginning at 7:00PM or 8:00PM. US$6 admission. Contact Asian
Trails (Tel/Fax: 053-730088 in Battambang, or 023-216555 in
Phnom Penh), or the Phare Ponleu Selpak office (Tel: 053-952424,
012-890360) for the schedule. Located on Route #5 about 1km west of
town.
Website:
www.phareps.org
.
Cooking Classes The Smokin Pot
restaurant offers Khmer and Thai food cooking classes on request.
Class daily from 9:00AM - 1:30PM at the Smokin Pot. Learn
three recipes and prepare lunch in the process. Book a class at the
Smokin Pot a day in advance.
Countryside Tour The rural countryside outside of Battambang is National Geographic picturesque. Within just a few kilometers of town the countryside turns into small villages filled with stilted houses and rice paddies that stretch to the horizon. You’ll see plenty of countryside on the way to any of the local sites. Check out some of the local products in the making - rice paper, noodles and the fishpaste market. It’s all very traditional if not a bit unhygienic and smelly,
but a interesting experience and adventure nonetheless. The roads are often rough and
during the dry season. always exceptionally dusty. Bring a good hat and a krama to cover your nose and mouth.
Ek Phnom is an 11th century Angkorian-era ruin built as a Hindu temple under Suryavarman I. The temple consists of prasats on a platform with some carvings in pretty good condition. Wat Ek Phnom, a modern pagoda, sits next to the ruin. The river road drive to Ek Phnom from Battambang passes through
small villages and rice paddies and is an absolutely beautiful countryside
drive.
Phnom Banan is a mountain top, 11th century Angkorian-era ruin consisting of five prasats. Peaceful location with a nice view of the area. Also L’Ang But Meas cave. Very old (150 years+) active pagoda at the base of the mountain.
Pagodas Both Battambang town and the surrounding countryside are replete with pagodas, some of them very old and
highly respected. See Ray Zepp's book Around Battambang for complete information about visiting the local pagodas.
Phnom Sampeou Mountain, steeped in legend, and topped by Wat Sampeou and a group of caves used as ‘killing caves’ by the Khmer Rouge, containing the skeletal remains of their victims. The wat is unexceptional but the view is spectacular. Ask about the legend of Neang Rumsay Sok.
Provincial
Museum The Battambang Provincial Museum on the riverfront
road in the center of town houses a large collection of Angkorian
and pre-Angkorian artifacts - statues, carvings, bits of ancient
temples, pottery, etc. If you find the Museum open, it is well worth
a visit. Opening hours seem rather irregular, more likely to be open
in the morning than the afternoon. If it is closed but you see a
guard present, stop and tell him your are interested in the
Museum and if they don’t open it for you then, they will have it
open and ready for you the following morning.
Shopping in Battambang
Phsar Nath in the center of town is the main phsar
(traditional market) and is geared to the locals, sporting the usual
variety of fruits, vegetables, meat, clothes, sundries, food stalls,
etc. Gem dealers, a couple of banks, photo shops and moneychangers
line the streets that ring the phsar. Phsar Leu, just south of town,
seems to be the place to buy the local specialties: oranges and
pomelos from Pursat province. The oranges are said to be the best
oranges in the country.
Chea Heang Drink Shop on the west side of Phsar Nath offers
ice cream bars, cheeses, yogurt, wines, and other imported items.
Local goods Marble sculpture from Pursat province, woodcarvings from Battambang and sapphires from Pailin dominate the souvenir market in Battambang. Many of the hotels as well as the small souvenir/art/curios shops on Road #1 on the river in the center of town offer a selection of wood and marble products. The art shops have a better selection than the hotels and a couple have very interesting collections of curios, old trinkets, coins, antiques and oddities - well worth a look.
Cambodian sapphires and rubies mined in Pailin near the Thai border are brought to Battambang to be graded, cut and polished. There are some good deals on stones in Battambang but be very careful when buying. Fake and low quality jewel scams are common so you need to know gemology or know your gem dealer very well. Gem and gold dealers are located in the center of Psah Nath, in little shops surrounding the psah, and in a few shops on Road #1.
Internet/Phone in Battambang
There are Internet shops all over town. KCT Internet Cafés
has a shop next to the White Rose restaurant. Teo Hotel
also has a small Internet shop. Access is relatively fast and
stable. About $1.50/hour. Most internet shops offer very inexpensive
internet phone.
Banks in Battambang
Money Like the rest of Cambodia, the Cambodian riel is the
official currency but the US Dollar is the de facto tender. Hotel
prices are set in dollars. Unique to Battambang and western
Cambodia, Thai baht is in common use as well.
Banks All banks encash travelers checks and change money.
Canadia Bank, UCB and ANZ Royal Bank are located in front of Phsar
Nath. All have ATMs and offer credit card advances. Acleda Bank on
the east side of the river has Western Union. SBC on Road #2 has
credit card advances. Moneychanger/goldsellers are concentrated
around the market with a few along Road #1.
Canadia Bank
Plc.
Full range of banking services, including MoneyGram, Traveler Cheque
& Foreign Exchange
The North of Phsar Thom Market, Battambang
Tel: (855-53) 952 267 Fax: (855-53) 952 005
Telex: CANADIA KA36188, SWIFT Code: CADI KH PP
E-mail: canadia.bb@canadiabank.com.kh
Web-site: www.canadiabank.com
Updated 09/07
|